The quality of any tiling job is largely dependent on the surface to which the tiles are fixed. This should be firm, level, clean and dry.

Most surfaces require little preparation before they are tiled. A few, though, do need more extensive treatment. Rough surfaces can be replastered or relined with hardboard, and tiles should not be laid on wallpaper.

Tiles can be fixed to painted walls, providing that the paint is smooth and firm. Existing ceramic tiles are the the ideal tiling surface.

Construct a baseline - don't use a skirting board or a floor line as these are often out of true. For the baseline, measure the height of a tile from the floor or skirting board and make a mark.

Using a spirit level as a straight edge, check for level and draw a line through this mark. Pin the top edge of a batten along the line so it forms a level base, right along the length of the surface to be tiled.

Later, when you have tiles above it, you can remove the batten and fill in the space below. Tiles here may have to be cut or trimmed.

Find the centre point of the batten and mark out the tile widths along either side of it. Draw a vertical line, using the spirit level, where the last full tile ends on the left hand side.
You now have an accurate vertical line to work from.

Begin tiling at the intersection of the vertical line and the batten, filling in the bottom row and working upwards.

Adhesive should be applied thinly to the wall area of not more than one square metre at a time. Use the adhesive spreader to form ridges in the adhesive for good suction and adhesion.
Press the tiles firmly into place.

The spacer lugs on the tiles will ensure the correct size space for the grout. Remove any excess adhesive with a damp cloth.

When the tiling is finished, leave to set for 12 to 24 hours, then rub grout firmly into the tile joints with an old sponge, squeegee or cloth. Remove excess grout with a damp sponge when it's almost set. Allow the grout to dry and then give the tiles a final polish with a soft dry cloth.